The filter is behind the triangle shaped plate held on with 3 phillips-head screws. Good luck, Happy New Year. Information on this page is provided to you as a free service of iboats. It has since gotten much worse, now it leans out often, usually right when I try to get it on plane after leaving the harbor. I guess a cracked block could impede the performance characteristics. Sometimes the engine will correct itself and will run fine for 15 minutes and then might need a few pumps.
Give it time, lots of threads to go through and categorize. I swapped it in and it cured the leaning out problems. Even if this information is the same as the original factory specs, boats are sometimes modified. The lower one is a bitch and should be removed by removing the lower cowling it is a bitch to remove that and would take me at least an hour, lots of bolts and lots of things connected to it. If the pressure doesn't hold steady around 42 - 45 psi you probably need to replace the pump. This model has a electric starter and power steering. Be sure to do your testing under your normal boating conditions and with a good propeller not bent, cracked, or excessively chipped.
Thanks Eric, I really appreciate the help. The other possibility is the high pressure fuel pump itself. The first question is I'm looking through the honda marine shop manual and cannot for the life of me figure out where this high pressure fuel filter goes. I removed the 5 screws and laid the layers on the table. Vaccume draw should never be more than 2 and ideally 0. I did the cylinder drop test where I disconnected each spark plug under idle, each time it caused the engine to vibrate much differently than it does at idle.
We changed the Main Relay Assy at the recommendation of a local mechanic, but it didn't help. I pumped the bulb half way 8 times, the boat ran to 4k rpms without any problems for 1 minute 45 seconds and then leaned out. I have an unused brand new high pressure fuel pump for the 225. Unfortunately the engine was out of warranty and the powerhead had already been replaced under warranty with the previous owner. I pinched the hose before the gauge and fuel pump and the pump could not generate any inches of pressure at idle, even after fifteen or so seconds.
Here's the complete list of things I have done. In the picture it is the white plastic piece with yellow spider cracks on it and it is covered with a black plastic open cover. When I pump it hard the air goes through the bulb and disappears, but when the engine is running under load it does not appear to have any air going through the line. If you do find a blown fuse and the replacement fuse does not blow, you're still not in the clear - the problem may be intermittent. She still runs like a top. Two of the springs had broken in several pieces, there was also a bit of corrosion on all of the springs.
The motor will crank over but will not start. Instead I used a tiny 12mm open ended wrench and after a lot of swearing was able to remove the bolt. Never did figure it out, but replacing the high pressure fuel pump helped for a while. Does anyone know the replacement part number for this piece, is it 16911-759-003? Sounds like you have a fuel restriction. Originally this problem started about a year ago. Make sure you're measuring at the same points where the hot-wired 12v was applied.
We have those and thousands of others in stock now. Threads need to be reorganized and it's taking a long time to rebuild. The old pump had some rust on the plunger, it was also very difficult to press the plunger inwards. There are around 200 hours on the engine since the replacement. Since it died, it will not start. I ran several test runs and every time the boat would run fine for 90 seconds to 2 minutes before leaning out and then the only way I could get it running would be to pump that bulb 8 or more times in which case the motor would always run 90 seconds to 2 minutes, I could pretty much set my watch by it. .
On the honda bf130 there are only 2 bolts which hold the low pressure pump on. We are in mexico and can't get honda service, so any help you all can provide will be greatly appreciated. Good luck waiting on contacting Honda - I found them worthless. If you have previously paid for this repair, contact: American Honda Motor Co. I would run the engine with a remote tank hooked directly to the low pressure fuel pump on the back of the engine. I ran through all the same stuff. When it happened I would back down on the throttle and slowly increase it and it would run fine.
The forums are open but you may see old threads while the processing is running. I was surprised when it turned out to be the thermostat but stoked to get it running good again. The honda service bulletin stated that this could possibly be caused by cylinder head cracks and when I read the symptoms it was pretty much what I had experienced. I'll be doing my spring maintenance soon - summer is almost here! The filter in the picture is on the vent line from the fuel-vapor separator. I have tried to open the fuel tank fill cap when this occurs and it does not seem to make a difference.
Sometimes I'll pump the fuel bulb and then it goes away and sometimes it comes back about five minutes later or not at all. Check for loose connections at the pump. There are no sounding alarms when this happens. Symptoms: My honda bf130 I am not the original owner is still having surging problems. Problems: Boat starts and runs fine when it is out of the water and on earmuffs. The iboats are another excellent source of information. I went to tradewind inflatables in santa ana and John ordered me a new one.